Around Cao Lanh

Landscape 

Xeo Quyt Forest NATURE RESERVE

(Xeo Quyt, Xeo Quit; admission 5000d; 7am-5pm) Southeast of Cao Lanh and accessible by boat tour is the  beautiful  52-hectare Xeo Quyt Forest (also called Rung Tram) near My Hiep village. One vast swamp beneath a wonderful thick canopy of tall trees and vines, it’s one of the last natural forests left in the Mekong Delta.

During the  humid  season a  incredible  20-minute canoe tour (15,000d) takes you past old bunkers and former mine fields along narrow canals filled with ever-present dragonflies and choked with water hyacinths (luc binh). It’s an  lovely  experience but splash on the repellent and try to get out by 4.30pm when the mozzies begin swarming. During the  dry season you can explore this area on walk.

During the American War the VC had a base here, where top-brass VC lived in under ground bunkers. Only about 10 VC were here at any given time; they were all generals who directed the war from here, just 2km from a US military base. The Americans never  realised that the VC generals were living right under their noses. Of course , they  were suspicious about that patch of jungle  and periodically  dropped some bombs on it to reassure themselves, but the VC  remained safe in their underground bunkers.

From My Hiep, you can hire a boat (around US$20, seating up to 10 people) that takes around 40 minutes to make the 2km journey to Xeo Quyt. Dong Thap Tourist includes a guided trip in several of its tour programs.

Tram Chim National Park NATURE RESERVE

(7am-4pm) Tram Chim National Park is due north of Cao Lanh in Tam Nong district and  notable for its eastern sarus cranes (Grus antigone sharpii). More than 220 species of bird have been identified within the reserve, but ornithologists will be most interested in these rare red-headed cranes, which grow to an  impressive 1.8m high.

Seeing these birds, however, requires a considerable commitment (time, effort and money), so it’s strictly for enthusiasts.

Birds nest here from about December to May; from June to November they move  to another area like northwest  Cambodia, so time  your trip  to coordinate with the birds’ travel itinerary if you hope to see them. The birds are early risers, so morning visits are  advised. During the day, they’re engaged in the important business of eating.

Tam Nong is a sleepy town 45km from Cao Lanh. The one-way drive takes around an hour to travel by car. From Tam Nong it  takes another hour by small boat (around 2,700,000d) to reach the place where the cranes live and another hour to  return. Add to this whatever time you spend (perhaps an hour) bird-watching (bring your own binoculars), it will be a unique experience , and then the requisite two hours to  return to Cao Lanh, it’s up to  your  mode of  transport. There are  a few rudimentary  guesthouses in Tam Nong if you  decide to stay late or hit the park early. Tam Nong sleeps  early so if you decide  to eat dinner in Tam Nong, make arrangements not later than  5pm.